Big Bend Chisos Mountain Snow is an uncommon event in the National Park. Winters are generally mild, with periods of cold weather and occasional snow. On rare occasions, snow or ice can close the road into the Chisos Basin for a short time. During a recent trip to Big Bend, the uncommon occurred. Ice and snow, a closed road and a winter blanket that covered the foothills with a dazzling display of winter white.
The Plan
I had a short window of opportunity to make a trip to Big Bend and still be back for Thanksgiving. We headed out for and overnight run from Houston. The weather forecast was warning of a winter storm event from an Arctic cold front. In addition some tropical jet moisture from the southwest. We were excited about the possibility of seeing a Big Bend Chisos Mountain Snow. Additionally we prepared for the worst to brave the cold.
The Journey
The drive was uneventful as we worked our way west. The temperatures were surprisingly warm for late November. As we passed through Del Rio on US 90, my truck ambient temp gauge showed 74 deg. By the time we reached the Border Patrol check point we reached the leading edge of the front. The temp had already dropped to 41 deg with a stiff NW wind. The temp dropped progressively reaching a low of 31 near Sanderson before climbing again by the time we reached Panther Junction.
Day 1 Arrival
We arrived at a half-full Basin campground early on the Friday before Thanksgiving with blue skies and 50 deg temperatures. This changed quickly. Before we completed setting up camp the temperature was dropping and clouds began pouring into the Basin from the east.
The Basin quickly filled with cloud and fog and the temperature dropped rapidly. Next we both retreated to the warmth of the tent and sleeping bags and took a nap to revive from the long overnight drive.
Glenn Spring Road
After sleeping for about an hour we awoke to find the wind had dropped and the sun had returned to the Basin. Next we decided to take a drive down to the lower elevations and stretch our legs a bit. After we dropped into Green Gulch we found a low cloud bank and all the lower elevations were beneath cloud cover. In addition a strong cold wind was blowing. We stopped at PJ to pay our entry fee and headed toward the Glenn Spring road for a short drive. The desert was surprisingly green with a burst of color after the recent rains, but the wind was howling and getting colder by the minute.
Back to the campground
We headed back to the Basin to cook dinner and were greeted by sunny skies again. The cloud deck was below Casa Grande and Emory. It seemed to be quickly dropping. The air was clear and the view through the window was classic.
A cold night
We hit the bags early that night, still tired after the long drive. The night was warm and snug despite the strong wind and pattering of precip during the night. We awoke early to a fog filled basin and temps around 30 F. Additionally a thin veneer of ice was starting to coat everything and we decided to attempt a desert hike in search for warmer temps and better visibility.
Road Closure
With all the chatter about Randall’s Overlook we decided that would be low enough to be a bit warmer and headed out of the Basin. As we approached the last switchback before the Lost Mine trail parking area we could start to see the flanks of Casa Grande were covered with freezing fog/ice. The corner was pretty slick. But with 4WD I had no issues making it to the LMT parking area. There were a few cars unable to climb the last part of the pass. Additionally the ranger told me the Green Gulch area was pretty slick and a sand truck was coming. We waited on the truck and took a walk while he made multiple trips into the Basin and back to PJ to pick up sand.
Winter Wonderland – Big Bend Chisos Mountain Snow
The sights amazed us after taking a walk down to the first pull over. ( the stone wall parking area) Our first Big Bend Chisos Mountain Snow. Despite no broad vistas this day and the fog was thick and swirling nature’s artwork was amazing.
Changing Plans
It was becoming clear that the road was going to get worse instead of better, and the friendly ranger let me know that they were probably going to close the road soon. We had a few choices at this point.
- Try to do the Marufo Vega hike and not be able to get back up in the Basin
- Pack up and move to RGV and miss the show!
- Hunker down in the Basin and see what happens
A Dayhike
Mikala and I quickly came to the agreement that we wanted to see what nature was going to show us and we headed back down to the campground. After that we had a hot lunch of homemade chicken poblano soup with soft hot corn tortillas and a cup of hot tea to warm up. The road was closed shortly after and we had to live with our choice. The ice was building in the Basin, and the visibility was about 100 yards, but we wanted to get out and headed down the road toward the sewage treatment plant with the intention of getting some kind of hike in.
As we walked down and met up with the Window trail, I had an idea that might save the day. James B and I had hiked to Upper Oak Spring (Paloma Spring), from the Stone Cottages back in August, and had looked at the wash from above the spring and wondered if it could be approached from below. This might be something that could be done today!
Bear Sign
We took the easy walk to the wash that intersects the Window trail at N29 16.516 W103 19.050 and turned up stream. Once we entered the wash we escaped the wind and there was no ice or freezing fog. Almost immediately we began to see bear sign.
The wash was full of Madrone everywhere and there were numerous places where the bears had been breaking branches and obviously processing the red berries into orange poop! They seemed to be very selective about which trees they were harvesting. I surmise they were only taking the ripest fruits and waiting for the other trees to ripen fruit before they ate from them.
Bears!
About 10 minutes after starting up the wash, a movement up ahead caught my eye, but disappeared into the brush with much haste. As Mikala and I were discussing what it was, I saw movement above in a madrone tree as 2 bear cubs were backing down out of the madrone as fast as they could.
As soon as they hit the ground, they hightailed it after what we then knew was mom. Mik took a picture with her iPhone, but I had my wide angle lens mounted and didn’t even try. Mikala was smiling from ear to ear. She has a special thing about the Big Bend Bears. I was thrilled that she got to see them again.
Upper Oak Spring
About 1/2 mile up the wash we came across some pools of water and then a nicely flowing stream that stayed with us for the rest of the hike.
The canyon narrowed as we continued upstream and the sheer walls towered above us. I knew we were getting close to the spring. We discussed climbing up and returning to the campground via the Laguna Meadow trail if we could get through……..
As the canyon made a last turn we saw ahead of us the end of the trail. It was a 25′ waterfall/pouroff that ended our forward progress.
We looked on the right and left for a way to climb around and it may be possible on the left side, but it was really steep, with loose rock and lots of brush, so we didn’t try. We retreated the way we came and stopped for pictures on the way back. On the way back we ran across the largest Madrone tree I have ever seen, growing right out of the base of the sheer walls of the canyon.
There were still some fall colors in the canyon and it was very beautiful in this close but hidden little gem.
More Bear Activity
As we worked our way back, we found more evidence of bear activity on a Juniper
We also found this pretty little shelf fungus on the way back.
We returned to the campground and encountered the freezing fog almost as soon as we popped back out on the window trail. Despite less than optimal conditions we logged just under 5 miles We considered ourselves lucky to get a decent hike that day. Therefore I would highly recommend this little canyon for a short day hike. It is quite beautiful.
Back to Camp
After returning to the campground that day, we grilled up a hot meal and drove up to the lodge to make use of the Wi-Fi and check in with the peeps at home. It was still cold, hovering around the 30 deg mark and we looked forward to a warm nights sleep. We also hope the road would be passable in the morning so we could drop into the desert and get in a longer hike
A Cold Surprise
Sometime around 10:30 that night, my sleep was intruded by the sound of thunder, strong winds, flashes of lightning and the splattering of rain?? on the tent? I rolled back over and slept for awhile longer. Later I was awakened by the cold steady drip of water on my face. We had a pretty good set of leaks on both ends of the tent. It took me awhile to figure out why, but we wasted no time grabbing all of our bedding and bailed to the truck before things got real wet. As it turns out, the rain was not rain, but big sloppy slush balls that piled up on the rainfly. The sheer weight of all of this slush bowed the rainfly to the point of forcing it down on to the tent shell.
With the small amount of heat we had in the tent, it was slowly melting and dripping all over us. In the morning I covered the fly with an additional tarp, but the damage was done. We were still trapped in the Basin and I spent a good portion of the day and 3 bottles of propane drying everything out and getting us back to normal.
Mikala was pretty tired from a restless night and she took a nap while I wandered the Basin with my camera.
We finished up the day with a hot grilled meal of ground lamb burgers and hoped that tomorrow we would see some melt and be able to get down into the desert.
The End of the Storm
Hooray!! The next morning brought a welcome sight with clearing skies and the sun brightening all around us. We hoped that the road would be open early then quickly got together some food and water and loaded our packs.
The Aftermath of the Storm
To our delight the road was open early and we headed out early. There seemed to be some melt off during the night near the Lost Mine Trail but as we made the turn into Green Gulch, the blanket of snow that had fallen below in the foothills amazed us. As a result the sun was glittering off a field of white and the mountains were being touched by the early morning gold of sunrise.
A Day hike above Boquillas Canyon
As we worked our way toward RGV the snow and ice disappeared and the skies were clearing nicely. When we reached the MV parking area it was in the 40’s and sunny. Our plan was to hike the Marufo Vega Trail to the Boquillas Canyon overlook. We enjoyed our first day of sun after many socked in days.
The Trail
We quickly moved up the wash past the first ore tower and started the slow climb toward the first set of climbs that would take us to our destination. The views north toward the Ore terminal and Strawhouse were clear and broad. We could see two of the standing towers on the ridge to the north.
We reached the first flat above the wash just before the steep switchbacks began. The view back toward Boquillas was in shadow from some persistent clouds and by this time we had shed all of the layers that kept us warm over the past few days and enjoyed the warm sun where we were. It was still cold and stopping for long in the light breeze would chill you pretty quickly so we attacked the switchbacks and continued toward our goal.
With the steep switchback behind us we exited the trail after a few miles and headed toward the draw that would take us to the overlook. After that we climbed around a small pour off and made the last trek up to the saddle before the overlook. As we crossed the saddle, the view behind us shows the rugged nature of the area.
Boquillas Canyon
Once we arrived at the overlook we spent some time taking photos, eating lunch and soaking in the view. We spent about 1 1/2 hours at the overlook including a walk around to the next point to the west for a different perspective. We enjoyed the quiet beauty while we rested before undertaking the journey back.
While we were sitting and soaking in the view, I thought I heard voices in the wind. Sure enough there were; coming from the canyon. There were 4 canoes rounding the turn in the river more than 800 feet below us. You can see them along the river bank in this highly cropped shot. (Are they illegally crossing into Mexico?)
It was getting late, so we packed up and headed back. Afterwards we stopped at the small tinaja above the pour off for a few photos.
Back to the Basin Campground
Once we arrived at the trailhead we had logged 8.2 miles with ~ +, – 1660 ft of elevation change. After we headed back to the Basin and I snapped a few pictures in the afternoon light. Most of the snow was gone in the foothills below the Basin. In addition only remnants remained in the shadows and on north facing slopes.
The Long Way Home
Despite the weather we managed to get in a couple of hikes. We prepared to leave the following morning. Later on the way back we did a 15 minute pit stop at Judge Roy Bean Center. (good bathrooms) Also a quick photo stop at Seminole Canyon. In conclusion this trip was a success. Any opportunity to get to the Big Bend area can’t be diminished by a little bit of snow!
Hope you enjoyed this media heavy post. Comment if you feel like it.
What canyon overlook did you take the pictures at? Is that the Boquillas Canyon Overlook?
That indeed is Boquillas Canyon, but not from the overlook. The view picture is reached by hiking off trail from the Marufo Vega Trail. Let me know if you need additional info.
Hi Richard,
Came across your write up when I was looking for other hikes to do in BB – very nice write up and amazing photos. I would love to get to the canyon overlook point in your photo. Can you give me any info that would guide me there. I understand that you took the Marufo Vega trail; how far until the overlook point from the trailhead?
Thanks
I sent you an email. It is about 8.2 miles round trip
Would you be so kind as to email me information on acquiring garmin/maps of Big Bend?
Thank you,
Randy
I sent you an email
That’s a sweet little trip. Beautiful pictures! We got to the basin campground on Monday… 2 days after ya’ll, so we missed the ice and snow show. Probably saw you in the campground as we stayed there for 2 nights. We had 2 nights of solitude at Elephant Tusk after that and then finished up the last night at Stillwell’s with a campfire.
Heading back January 17th for a week. Planning to head up to Laguna Meadow, overnight there, and see how far out Knife Ridge we can go on the next morning. Also considering an overnight into Telephone Canyon if it’s not too hot. Can’t wait.
Brad
Beautiful shots Richard. Very happy to see Mikala back out there with you. I must get to the Boquillas canyon overlook in Feb.
Thanks Alex. The Overlook is a great view, I wish the clouds would have lifted enough to see the Carmens. Maybe next time?